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Amplog
This is kinda like a "blog", except I'm writing about my latest amp build. Hence, "amplog." Today I'm writing about a build I just finished, a 20 watt 1x12" D-type combo. As many of you ampfans might guess, "D-Type" stands for Dumble. I've built this amp along the lines of a Dumble Overdrive Special. I've built a couple D-Type amps before and I wanted this one to be stripped-down to the tone essentials. This project actually started last year. I had an Idea for an amp along the lines of the original Mesa Boogies, which were hot-rodded Fender Princetons. With this in mind I ordered a BF Princeton Reverb-style chassis from mojotone.com. I also ordered a BF Princeton-style cabinet from Will Dyke at Armadillo Amp Works. I asked him to make the baffle for a 12" speaker instaed of the stock 10" and to add 1" to the front-to-back depth for a slightly bigger cabinet with better bass. These pieces then sat around for a long time until I found the time and money to put it together. My original idea was to cram a 50 watt tranny set in this little amp and do a Marshall master volume-type thing. I realized that I didn't really play any places where I needed 50 watts. I get enough complaints about volume now and a 50 watt combo wasn't going to help that;-) So, I reasoned, a 20 watt Princeton-style power section w/ 2x6V6 tubes was probably a better, more useful idea. Late last year and early this year I had the occasion to build a couple D-Type amps for other folks. I also thought back to the 1st D-type I'd built, a 20 watter that just sang! The cool thing about these amps is the volume actually comes-on fairly slowly. It's possible to get gooey gobs of sustain without much volume. This is more like what I needed for the music and clubs I'm playing. I didn't want to drill extra holes in the face of the Princeton chassis. That left me with 6 control holes to work with. I've noticed for a while that nobody actually uses the channel switching featues of real Dumbles or the numerous clones. Folks tend to dial-up a sound they like and leave it there. I also got to thinking about the very 1st D-style amp I built, which was actually a mod I did on a friend's Traynor, which sounded badass! It was wired for overdrive only. The neat thing about that amp was you could dial-up any sound you wanted, from clean to scream. The clean tones, with the gain and drive down, sustained for days because the signal was still going thru the extra overdrive tube stages. Neat stuff! And, of course, the overdrive sound was supernatually smooth. Distortion with no fuzz! Wow! With all this in mind I decided to leave out the switching function and wire the amp for overdrive. This made the build a bit simpler and would still give me lots of tone options. Without O/D switching I woudn't need the O/D "level" control, only a master volume. I also figured I wouldn't need the mid control, bass and treble would be enough. So that gave me volume (labeled "gain" on my amp), bass (lows), treble (highs), drive, (master) volume, and presence. Also, I didn't really like most of the switches on a real D-Type (deep, bright, PAB, etc.) but I do like the mid boost (changes the treble cap, very cool-sounding) so I put a mid boost switch in the 2nd input hole. That gave me my panel layout and also defined the circuit I needed. I measured the hole spacing on the chassis and designed a new faceplate, which I had made by SignCrafters here in San Marcos on laser-etched aluminum. They did a great job, the faceplate looks killer and fit perfectly.
Getting the chassis from mojotone, all punched and drilled,
saved me a lot of fabrcation. I only had to drill a few small holes for
mouting the new eyelet boards and the slightly larger output tranny. Building
the amp went fairly quickly. Assembly and wiring only took a couple days.
After a little bias tweaking the amp came to life! My favorite part! Now,
on to the tweaking. There were a couple tone issues at first. I had decided to use a tube rectifier because the power tranny was made for it and there was a hole in the chassis for a tube rec. The 1st rectifier I tried was a GZ34. Right away I noticed the B+ was really high for 6V6s, around 440vdc. Also the power tranny was running really hot. Upon looking at schems for the tweed Champ/Princeton the tranny was designed for I noticed these amps used a 5Y3 rectifier tube. I swapped-in a 5Y3, my voltage came down a bit (420vdc) and the tranny was running a bit cooler, so the amp was bit happier.
Then there was a round of adjusting preamp voltages. D-Type amps really want to see the preamp tubes running at about 200vdc on the plates. This is a real sweet spot for these amps. After a couple changes to the dropping resistors in the filter section, and one plate resistor change, I got the magic voltages. The amp began to sing a bit more but still had the dreaded "cloudy midrange."
So now I've got the amp singin on my bench, time to
put the cabinet together. In the great tradition of boutique amp builders
everywhere, my wife does the covering;-) I drilled all the mounting holes,
painted the inside black, and handed the cab over to Jes for some black
Tolex. Getting Tolex to stick and look good is not easy but Jes made it
look great! Another trick thing I did was to make the back panels oversized.
They almost come together on the back, leaving a 1" space between
them that acts like a I had a neat idea for the speaker baffle. I got a piece of perforated steel from my sheet metal guys, cut to fit the front of the baffle, painted that black.Then I painted the baffle white. Then I got some black brush paint, dipped my brush, and dripped black spots and drips on the white baffleboard, like Jackson Pollack or something. With the black grille in place I'm thrilled with the finished look! Artsy, yet industrial. In another happy accident, the finished amp is the same width as my new 1x12" ported speaker cabinet. Together the 1x12" speaker cab and the 1x12" combo make a killer mini stack.
Update: 5/26/10
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